The other seminars I attended during Tales tended to be more of the geeky nature.
Umami in Cocktails (Thursday, July 22)
As usual, Darcy O’Neil’s seminar was chock full of information. Information you wouldn’t even think of asking about basic cocktail ingredients. I attended his seminar on sugars and sweeteners in cocktails that ended up making me feel like I was back in materials science class again, and this seminar was no exception.
- Umami isn’t a strictly flavor concept. In fact, as far as flavors go, it’s pretty damn subtle to notice. It’s more of a response trigger. It activates a significant number of pleasure centers in the brain and it also produces a response in receptors that are present all along the GI tract. It is a flavor enhancer that produces a response of satiety in the body.
- As an amino acid, umami is usually present in foods that have been aged. For example, Parmesan cheese or aged steak are chock full of it. This is mainly because the amino acids of umami are produced in the breaking down process involved in aging.
- Possible umami sources for cocktails? Darcy served Caesars to those in attendance. Caesar, with both tomatoes and clam juice, feature umami quite a bit. Potatoes also possess umami, believe it or not. Darcy told the audience of how he tried to make potato water by boiling cubed potatoes, then taking out the potatoes and boiling the water to reduce for another 5 min. According to Darcy the resulting water started smelling like French fries. Oh, and Marmite. Lots of umami there to, which brings us to the recipe for Darcy’s 5th Sense Cocktail:
1 1/4 oz. bourbon
1 oz. SerendipiTea green tea
1 barspoon of Maraschin liqueur
1 barspoon of Marmite syrup (made by simply mixing one generous tablespoon of Marmite into a cup of water)
The Hows and Whys of Cocktails: An Exploration of Techniques, Ingredients and Methodology (Friday, July 23)
So ever wonder why that gelatin foam doesn’t last that long compared to the one made with egg whites? Audrey Saunders was wondering about that too when she was first coming up with the Earl Grey Marteani. The first incarnation of this drink had an Earl Grey tea foam made with gelatin that wasn’t holding up too well. Wanting to know why, she posed the question on eGullet, which is how she got to know Howard McGee, author of On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen. The two were panelists for this seminar along with Tony Conigliaro.
McGee explained to the audience that foams are made of emulsifiers. The protein in gelatin differs from the protein in egg whites. the foam is weaker because the proteins do not bind as well as egg whites and are easily broken down by ingredients in cocktails like citrus or alcohol.
McGee went on to say that pasteurized egg whites you purchase from the store don’t foam as well as actually egg whites taken from a raw egg.
There was a little bit of wink, wink, nudge, nudge joking considering The Pegu Club ran into a little issue with egg white use earlier in the year. Nonetheless, Audrey made certain to let the crowd know, “You cannot hop that youre eggs are good, you have to know your eggs are good.”
Audrey ended up using egg whites for texture in the Earl Grey Marteani, and instead infusing gin with the tea.
Also, don’t be too rough with your mint. When you start rough mint up, you get some of that plant-y flavor. McGee explained that the actual mint scent you get from mint comes from the little hairs on its fuzzy underside. You can try this out yourself by gently rubbing a mint leaf between your fingers and seeing how minty the scent is, versus actually crushing and ripping the leaf up and then smelling your fingers. Obviously, how rough you want to get with your mint can depend on what kind of drink your making.
The Science of Stirring (Friday, July 23)
Moderated by Eben Klemm, with panelists Thomas Waugh and Dave Arnold.
Eben started off by explaining stirring. he said stirring is “ineffectual shaking” if one simply takes into account chilling. However, other factors besides simply making a drink cold is why other techniques, like stirring exist.
Dave demonstrated this point with an extreme case of chilling down a drink, using liquid nitrogen.
Dave’s tips for liquid nitrogen:
1. pour the liquid nitrogen into whatever you are cooling down, not the other way around.
2. Anything that’s been frozen with liquid nitrogen can burn your tongue, so be sure to consume (or warn your patrons to consume) said item with caution.
The taste comparison was apparent. There was an oddly clean lack of personality to the drink frozen with liquid nitrogen, while the other had more of a something or other happening to it.
Factors that mess with stirring:
1. Speed of stirring
2. Surface area of the ice
3. Temperature of vessel
4. Temperature of the ice
Eben said through tests surface area of the ice has the biggest effect on temperature.
After some demonstrations and some talks about methodology used to measure the data, the panel called up people to the front to try out shaking, and several way of stirring, to see in real time how fast each method got liquids cooler. Shaking won out, but the audience also got the chance to come up and try out difference ice types and satisfy their own curiosity as well as ask the panel any questions they had on their minds about stirring and other stirring related items like ice (how wet? how cold? how big?).
Half the price of admission is to hear Dave Arnold speak, to be honest though. A blog entry seriously cannot do justice.